Last year this posted in June despite the actual day being the 22nd May. It just took me a while to write and post it as I simply didn’t want to accept that my Camino was coming to an end.
I have looked forward to this post from the day I did this walk as it is certainly one of my favourites on the Camino.
If you’re looking more for posts on what the Camino can do for you personally then please read my posts on our other blog beingthebestyoucanbeblog.wordpress.com which will be updated shortly.
For now, please read on for my personal views on my Camino.
Some pilgrims complete the stage Olveiroa to Finisterre in one day which would mean walking 31.4km to Finisterre and then an extra 3.2km to the lighthouse. I was more than happy to break it down so this walk would be 20km leaving me with less to do the following day.
I left my accomodation when the mist still lay over the trees which for me always adds an element of mystery to the start of a walk. Finding my way along and having to concentrate on the path knowing I must be careful and make sure I see the arrows or the kilometre markers showing the direction to go in, always makes you more focussed and you know without a doubt that you are completely there in the present moment.
As I walked I made sure to take everything in knowing that I would only have this walk and the next day before my Camino would be over. I appreciated how the landscape changed, my moments of reflection along the way, the smiles and the greetings I received from locals and fellow pilgrims but most of all I enjoyed the act of walking and being alone with my thoughts.
As you walk up the path leads on to a road just after Hospital which also has a cafe to stop in and get the last services before Cee. There is a large roundabout with a marker in the middle where the route splits off, left for Finisterre and right to Muxia. I already knew my Camino would take me to Finisterre where I would end my journey which is just as well as the markers showed that Muxia is closer and therefore less kilometres to walk.
From this point, my mood lifted and I felt my legs wanting to go faster as they could feel or smell the finishing line. I was still wanting to go slow and experience everything I could and luckily my body, mind and soul somehow silently reached an agreement.
Again the landscape changes and the path opens up. At this stage more than any other day lots of pilgrims walked past me on their way back to Santiago. I offered them all a ‘Buen Camino’ although I was silently thinking they must be mad. Yes I did and I’m willing to admit that. Now not all of these pilgrims would have walked from the beginning of the routes or completed a Camino in full so maybe they wanted to do the whole Santiago to Muxia to Finisterre and back to Santiago route. I’ve just realised as I write this that maybe they were walking from Finisterre to Muxia as this would be the place I would pass them. Either way, I’m still glad I finished in Finisterre that will never change and maybe that’s a great positive to know where you will know the journey has ended for you.
There was a moment I passed a couple of pilgrims walking together when they stopped me to see if I knew that there was a fountain further back along the path. I told them that yes I did and pointed in the general direction thinking they needed it. This wasn’t the case in fact they had seen me carrying an empty water bottle and were concerned I didn’t have water on a hot day. My water was in fact in my bag and I was carrying the bottle because there were no bins around so I couldn’t throw it away. There is far too much litter around the Camino so you’ll understand why I insisted on carrying the bottle along until I found a bin to dispose of it properly.
I walked along with these two and experienced a glorious moment with them. They had clearly come along at the right point as it was a lovely moment to share and I’m glad in our different languages we were able to express our own joy and understand each other’s happiness.
We walked around the corner where the trees were lower and we caught our first glimpse of the sea! Oh my the sea. There it was right in front of us and I’m happy to share with you readers that it brought tears to my eyes. I can only imagine that moment for previous pilgrims centuries ago who would see this as meaning they were close to the end of the earth as there would soon be no more land to walk on. For me it had been 7 weeks of walking inland so no glimpse of the sea along the way. Of course if you do a coastal Camino then maybe this moment isn’t as significant.
The descent into Cee is steep so you have to be careful to make sure there are no injuries when you are so close to your end goal. The view is spectacular and even when the sea disappears as you dip behind the trees for your descent, the freshness from the breeze and the smell if the sea still pulls you down the path.
Cee is a great place to stay overnight as that sea certainly revives and refreshes you. Some pilgrims grab lunch and then walk through to get closer to or to reach Finisterre.
From my accommodation, I had a lovely view which gave me the sense of space allowing my thoughts to wander as I looked out of the window that evening.
My next update will be for the final stage to Finisterre.
Until then Buen Camino!